Tibi's Backstage Glamour Had A Boyish Twist

Tibi designer, Amy Smilovic’s line, typically known for a feminine aesthetic, entered a new direction with a menswear inspired F/W 2012 collection. Lots of tailored silhouettes appeared on the runway, and the hair and makeup definitely had a 1960’s feel (the collection was a take on the Beatles). Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri for Aveda created variations of messy updos on the models. Basically, the hair was pulled back with a little lift on the crown, to look like the girl just threw her hair back into a bun. They recommend using two elastics when doing an updo, because if one breaks the other will still stay in place. A volumizing tonic was used to give a little oomph to the look. A men’s product called Pure-Formance Grooming Clay was also applied to give hair some hold and chunkiness. They wanted the hair to appear undone and not too precious.

Kim Soane for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics created a cool, effortless look. The statement was a strong brow, keeping the rest of the makeup super clean and natural. The wind burnt cheeks stood out the most. Pink Truffle creamy color for cheeks and lips was applied in a 1960’s way—it was highlighted in the cheekbone, not the whole cheek, giving it a dewy effect. To finish off the look, nails were painted in an opaque white hue by Dashing Diva called NYC Fleet Week. The overall look was understated chic, what any girl aims for!

Nymph-like Dolls, Backstage Elie Tahari

The hair and makeup for the Elie Tahari fall 2011 show was soft and innocent, and I couldn’t help but want to emulate it myself! Esther Langham was the lead for Moroccan Oil, and she set out to create a clean and sleek ponytail. She began by dabbing the hair with a cocktail of Moroccanoil treatments mixed in with about a quarter size amount of Hydrating Style Cream, and rubbing into hair from roots to ends. Then, she blow dried with a paddle brush to get hair nice and flat, and used a large, round brush to smooth the ends.

All of the models wore a center part, hair was finger combed down so that it wouldn’t be too severe, and finally secured with a hair tie as low as possible. Some of the models had hair wrapped around the face of their ponytails, and others wore leather hair bands or pretty lace and feather hair accessories. Before they went out on the runway, hair was spritzed with Glimmer Shine Spray.

Kimberly Soane from Bobbi Brown was the lead on makeup, and she wanted to create a very wide-eyed, pretty girl look that was almost “youthful Victorian nymph-like.”

Lots of Lash Glamour Lengthening mascara was used and warm, pink shimmer to highlight the inner corner of the eye (Champagne Quartz Metallic Eye Shadow).  She made a cupid’s bow by taking the burnt red color “Slopes” and pressing it in the center of the lip to give a doll-like effect. A very sheer blush “Pale Pink” was put on cheeks for a matte finish—and this shade works great on all skin tones. She wanted that “no brows” look as well.

Dashing Diva did the nails in an orangey nude hue called “Trust Fund.” A matte topcoat went over the color called “Make-It Matte.” Most of the models wore gloves so very few actually wore polish.

Expert Tips from Tibi's Backstage Dream Team

Ever since I can remember I have been in love with Tibi dresses. I could barely wait to cover backstage at Tibi’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection this season. Every fashionista knows their bright colors and patterns already make a fashion statement. To accompany the designs, stylist chose natural hair, makeup, and nails to keep the models looking glamorous, but allowing the clothes to take center stage. With expertise advice from the pros, you will soon be able to get the look of the runway in a few easy steps. The hair was clean and simple. The models all showed off their perfect ponytails with center parts, and by following these tips from Frank Rizzien of R Session Tools, and lead stylist Kevin Ryan you can get the look too. Start by having the perfect blow dry, the secret is not only brushing your hair, but combing all your hair as well. Make sure all the knots are removed so that the hair will flow. One of Rizzien’s favorite products to use then is Aveda’s Universal Styling Cream to seal in moisture. Also R Session Tools’ round large barrel brush provides easy access, which is 100% boar, has clear single nylon bristles, and a removable pick to section your hair. This will help create volume and bounce. Next, spritz L’Oreal Ellnett Satin Hairspray at the roots of your hair and flatiron straight.  Finally, tie your hair in a ponytail.

Makeup was done by the one and only Bobbi Brown. "I love doing makeup for the clothes that I love," she remarked.  Her inspiration for this season was for it to be a “pretty season,” wanting every woman in the audience to want the look of the models. Bobbi created a radiant face that is finished in a natural way. One standout feature was the cheeks. By using Bobbi Brown’s Highlighter Pen in Pink all over the cheek instead of a highlighter creates a softer look. The eyes were magnificent; Bobbi Brown’s Long Wear Gel eyeliner was used in black ink, and her Kohl Eyeliner, a shadow liner in plum orchid was used depending on the model’s skin color and eye shape. Lots of mascara was used to give definition to the lashes. The lips had a nice natural lip color that was very settle.

Pattie Yankee lead Dashing Diva manicurists and she shared a few secrets to get the perfect manicure at home. The number one rule is always use nail polish remover first to remove natural oils. Then, use a base coat and apply two thin coats.  "You must finish with a good top coat," she strongly suggested.  Try Dashing Diva’s Debutante nail color that was used at this year’s show on both nails and toes.

Answer the question and see more pics after the jump....

If you could have a dream team of primpers who would they be?

Halston Kicks Off the Season with A Natural Look

Worn by Sarah Jessica Parker (who was at the show tonight), and other hot celebrities; Halston is one designer that knows how to set trends. Despite the down pour the show went on and the audience was packed at Gladstone’s Gallery in New York. Halston showed off their designs and fresh, natural look for this season. I went backstage for Beautysweetspot to get all the tricks of the trade in creating what the pros called – the perfect natural look. Inspired by the 1960’s and 70’s, MAC’s head makeup artist, Amora, shares a few secrets in creating a “no makeup” look. The team dabbled on foundation with a brush in a circular motion to polish the skin while giving it great coverage.  For a natural flush, Amora applied blush with her fingers in the center of the models cheek. The eyes lashes were absolutely amazing, and I found out the secret is to make sure the mascara’s brush is spikier and rubbery, similar to a comb. To get these lashes apply lots of product and separate the lashes one by one with brush. To do this take the mascara brush and bend up in layers to separate and lengthen. To complete the natural look, skip the eye liner.

Every girl knows that hair is the most important accessory worn with any outfit. Head hairstylist, Bob Recine and the Barex Style Team had two looks for the models at this year’s show. First, they started with Barex Gloss Strong Hold Mousse, which was applied to damp hair for added volume. The hair was then center parted and blow dried straight. Their bangs were pinned back creating a “V” shape to help... avoid lift. The look was completed by using Barex Gloss Hairspray to make sure all the strands stayed perfectly in place.

The second look was a sophisticated bun. The bun was created by first having two pig tails. Recine created the look by twisting the pig tails back and forth like a figure eight. He then used bobby pins to hold it in place.

Lead by Pattie Yankee, Dashing Diva once again proved they owned the runways – opting for a natural look that wouldn't clash with the designs. Two coats of the shade East River View was applied on light skinned models and  one coat of Chelsie in the Buff on darker skinned models.  Halston’s look this season of natural, fresh, makeup, hair, and nails is perfect for any woman to wear to work, running errands, or simply having brunch on Sundays.

Gossip Girl Designer, Lorick Showcased Rosy Makeup & Finger Combed Buns

I was actually giddy to attend the spring 2011 presentation of the real designer behind Eleanor Waldorf’s creations on Gossip Girl.  Since the start of the hit CW show, Abigail Lorick has successfully carved a name for herself in the fashion industry, being widely recognized for her girly garments that have very clean and tailored silhouettes. I was really excited to see what this former model envisioned for her own models to look like wearing her latest Lorick collection. I first went backstage at the intimate Tela Tea Room studio to talk to the show’s lead on hair, Jeffrey Rice of Philip Pelusi Salons, who was busy perfecting a low, messy bun on one of the models.  The look is “very soft, easy, and breezy…almost like the models did it themselves – casual, yet put together.”

Rubbing a combination of Beach Color, an organic product with a sugar granule texture, and Refresh Hair, which acts as a dry cleaner for the hair between his palms, Rice finger combed the models hair and softly wrapped it into a messy bun leaving hair band fully exposed – no bobby pins.

The key to the makeup was highlighting the skin and lead makeup artist, Deanna Melluso of Temptu, kept it minimal enhancing the models natural features.  A light dewy mouth and a generous amount of Temptu's Peony blush on the apples of the cheeks (but not clownish at all) was all that was needed. A

Dashing Diva's lead manicurist Pattie Yankee applied Chelsea In The Buff to all the ladies nails.  The shade is a nude, sheer color that goes well with the pastel color palette of the Lorick collection. The neutral color didn’t take away from the clothes at all, and was still very feminine, in keeping with the mood of the show.

I Got Cozy At Lincoln Center for the First Time Backstage at Farah Angsana

My first trip to Fashion Week's new home at Lincoln Center was for the Farah Angsana show.  Skeptical at first, I felt more welcomed than I thought I would as I pulled up in a cab on the upper west side to fashionistas gathering around the fountain.  It felt like home.  Bye, bye Bryant Park, everyone was here. Nineteen models were made up with soft metallic lids and romantic curls. "Farah's obsessed with J.Lo," commented Gregg Hubbard the lead makeup artist for Cristo. "Everything needs to be about the J.Lo glow!"  And in a way, it was – the eyes at least.  The bronzed eye was created with Bobbi Brown Cream Shadow in Gold Stone, which is a great base and layerable as a shadow.  The lip? A coral gloss.

It was great to see a Rita Hazan stylist backstage whipping up... some haute hair! Eddie Ngai created three romantic looks for the girls that consisted of straight with bounce, a structured updo and and soft and sexy.  Soft and full texture is key to the romantic theme.

Dashing Diva's lead manicurist Pattie Yankee did full mani's and pedi's on the ladies with No More Alimony, a shiny nude metallic shade.  One model fell asleep while getting her hair done at the same time of her mani and pedi!

Go Backstage at Brian Reyes

New York Fashion Week is almost over and we have to bid adieu to Bryant Park and all the memories of fashion and beauty created here throughout the years. Tonight I had the pleasure to go backstage at Brian Reyes and witnessed beauty at it's finest.  Although it seemed packed it was what I would call a "controlled mess" everyone was scattered in a frenzy but knew what needed to get done to showcase Brian Reyes's vision. Pattie Yankee lead manicurist from Dashing Diva dished how Brian wanted a neutral color with a semi-gloss so that it won't take away from the variety of colors from his collection.  They just used one coat of 57th and 5th to keep it simple and to the point.

Martin Christopher created a consistent theme of low pony tails with a slight, not so defined, left side part.  He reinvented the polished look by adding the edginess of the modern woman.  The focus was to create that matte texture.  With a quick blowout but doing so in a forward and then back direction to create volume from the root and bring it all back into a low pony tail and securing it with TRESemmé 24 hour body finishing spray.

On the contrary, Wendy Rowe lead make-up artist for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, wanted to create dramatic eyes to capture strength and confidence.  "The Brian Reyes girl for fall is modern and sophisticated from head to toe, but she has an edge, which her makeup reflects. She's a very cool girl who is comfortable in her own skin," she commented.

For the eyes she used aubergine shades on the upper lid such as Eggplant Shimmer Wash Eye Shadow and lined the lower lid with a spearmint color, Long-Wear Cream Eye Shadow in Aqua, to serve as a contrast.  To keep the lips neutral she faded the line.

Being that it was my first backstage show at Bryant Park it was such an inspiration to see how everything I love about beauty from the nails, hair and makeup can be used to tell the story of the designer and how it all ties together at the end. The same way I do everyday when I apply makeup that is either driven by how I feel that day, what I've seen or even inspiration from my outfit.

-MK

Go Backstage at Tibi

The Fall 2010 collection was a combination of greys and dirty mauves mixed into fabrics of velvets and satins. Sticking with the color scheme of the clothing, Wendy Rowe of Bobbi Brown used greys and blacks on the eyes to compliment it. On models of lighter skin tones she used Bobbi Brown Slate Eye Shadow and on darker she used a more greyish-mauve shade called Suede.  To create a 1950's cat eye, she lined the top of the lids with black eye liner and added some false lashes to the outer corners.  The skin was a satin finish and lip was a soft pink, Beige Lip Color.

"Curly girls are happy girls," Frank Rizzieri of R Session Tools stated backstage when describing the reasoning behind the look.  Using two irons throughout the whole head, one 1/4" and the other 3/4", spiral curls were created on each model.  They weren't cookie-cutter curls, but instead had the look of coming home from the party curls.

R Session Tools is known for their innovative hot tools and they introduced me to their new red mat that they were laying all of their curling irons and blow dryers on.  The red turns white when your tool is heated up and protects the counter space.  It also keeps your hair dryer from vibrating off your dresser when placing it down for a second.

Dashing Diva kept the nails short and natural and painted a mushroomy color on all of the models.  Patti Yankee explained it was a mix of Astor Place and West Village that she created for the show.  "There's such a demand for this color right now we're trying to get it into production as soon as possible," she concluded.

Go Backstage at Elie Tahari

This was the first show of the season that I attended where there were male models that needed some primping (grooming?) too.  Some of them were extreme divas, which is why I'm calling it primping.  The fall 2010 Elie Tahari collection experimented with texture.  One half was all black and the other was predominately gold, tan and copper. Kimberly Soane lead the Bobbi Brown lead the Bobbi Brown team in creating a gold chrome finish on the eye lined in a bright, electric blue-green shade that gave it a retro twist. The brows had a very natural finish and she introduced Bobbi's new Denim and Rose Palette, which comes out this fall, but using the dusty pinks on the cheeks and lips.

The men carried the "no makeup, makeup look" very well with a minimal amount of powder, keeping their skin pale, Bobbi Brown's Lip Balm SPF 15 and the emphasis was on the brows.  They were filled in to make them strong and defined.

Frank Rizzieri styled the women using a double barreled curling iron that created loose waves and kept the hair "simple and messy" using only a L'Oreal Elnett Hairspray at the end. The men's look completely contrasted. The inspiration was pulled from Mad Men and using Bumble & Bumble Gel the Multi-Talented Sculpting Medium, he side parted their hair and slicked it back so it was all neatly groomed.

Dashing Diva's, Patti Yankee ironically chose the color Fashion Week for the manicures and pedicures.  "I wanted to keep the nail neutral using this pale pink because there were a lot of browns and blacks in the line," she stated. Her team of four worked on the hands and feet of 35 girls backstage.  They also cleaned up all of the men's nails.